Sarlat – at the heart of the Dordogne valley

Sarlat is located in the Dordogne Valley. This valley in France is incredibly rich in history and culture. The Dordogne River, which gives the region its name, has been a crucial route between east and west. Nowadays, it’s mostly enjoyed for swimming or kayaking.

Along the Dordogne and the other river in the area, the Vézère, you can find traces of some of Europe’s earliest inhabitants. This is where the world-famous Lascaux caves are located, where some young boys discovered prehistoric cave paintings in 1940. These paintings show human activity in the area over 21,000 years ago. Other sites have evidence of settlements in cliff walls that are also over 10,000 years old, and the area has been inhabited ever since.

Our entire modern history

In “modern times,” we have the majestic castles and fortifications that date back about 1,000 years. These structures have been pivotal in many conflicts, including the Hundred Years’ War between France and England. Interestingly, this area is still a big hit among the English and British today. Many have holiday homes here, and some have even moved here permanently. The rolling green landscape might remind them of England, but with significantly better weather.

Dordogne is located just east of Bordeaux and is easily accessible by car or train. The train ride between Bordeaux and Sarlat takes only 2.5 hours.

I’ve visited the area several times and am always fascinated by everything it has to offer. That’s why I wanted to return to see if it still lived up to my expectations and to take some new photos. The old paper prints from the mid-90s aren’t exactly internet-friendly in 2024.

The perfect base

We spent a night in the beautiful town of Sarlat, which we had previously only visited on a day trip. It’s an incredibly cozy little town with narrow streets, packed with restaurants spilling out onto the sidewalks, and small squares with shops selling food, drinks, and handmade specialties. Sarlat is also a great base for exploring many of the area’s attractions.

Officially known as Sarlat-la-Canéda, the town is famous for its food markets and has roots dating back to the Middle Ages, which is evident in its architecture. The town center looks almost like a movie set, with most buildings well-maintained and beautiful, albeit showing their age.

Right in the heart of the town stands the imposing cathedral, a natural focal point. However, the narrow streets and tall buildings make it hard to see the church tower as you wander around. The square in front ensures the church remains a central part of the townscape, and it’s easy to pop in for a quick look.

We wanted to stay centrally and I have a thing for unique hotels, so we chose Hotel Le Couleuvrine, almost in the town center. There’s parking available outside, though it’s a bit pricey by French standards. The hotel also has a bar and restaurant, but you need to be there early to get a table. Unfortunately, we weren’t.

You need to eat

But the town is bursting with restaurants. Wherever you go in the narrow streets, you’ll find tables set up outside, often tucked against the rustic walls. Flowers and red-checked tablecloths create a quintessential French scene, but Sarlat manages to avoid feeling tacky or overly touristy. There are, of course, many tourists here, especially in August, but the town retains its charm.

As always in France, there are good and not-so-good restaurants, but we’re rarely disappointed. My partner says he’s never had bad food in France. Of course, it depends on your expectations and what you order. For example, you’ll often find offal on the menu in France, which might not appeal to all.

But we’re seasoned travelers, and I speak French, so it’s a bit easier for us to navigate. Still, we’re “Norwegian” enough to go for charm along with a good menu. The restaurant we ended up at was in a cozy courtyard shared by three different eateries. We dined at L’arrière Boutique and enjoyed the warm summer evening with delicious food.

Shopping for ducks and geese

There’s also a slightly wider and more “modern” street in Sarlat. We stumbled upon a market with crafts, food, and drinks. The street was charmingly decorated with a colorful “roof.”

No matter where you end up, you’ll likely find some of the same items on the menus: duck or goose. Périgord, the old name for what is now Dordogne, is known for several food items, including truffles and walnuts, as well as duck and goose products like foie gras. And Sarlat is no exception.

One of the town’s small squares has a cute statue of geese, which have been and still are so important to the region. Most shops sell some form of canned duck or goose products, along with walnuts and sweets.

A Final Tip! When we’re in France and staying at a hotel, we never pay for breakfast at the hotel. It’s often disproportionately expensive. We’re not big breakfast people anyway, but a good café au lait with a croissant at a local café keeps us going until lunch.

We prefer a big, nice lunch at a restaurant between 12 and 2 PM rather than eating a lot for breakfast. Remember that French restaurants often only serve lunch during this time, so if you’ve had a big breakfast and aren’t hungry until 3 PM, you might be out of luck. Another advantage is that it’s lovely to get out of the hotel early, find a cozy café, and just watch the world go by as the town wakes up.

We saw Sarlat come to life before we set out to explore some other gems in Dordogne. You can read about Josephine Baker and her lovely Château des Milandes here!

Other nice destinations in the Dordogne valley that I can recommend:

• Beynac
• La Roque-Gageac
• Domme
• Castelnaud-la-Chapelle
• Fortified House of Reignac
• La Roque St. Christophe