Rondane – My mountain paradise
Rondane and the village of Sollia have been my childhood vacation paradise and, frankly, my adult paradise too. The view from the terrace of our cabin (well, my parents’ cabin) is enough to take the breath away from even the most seasoned travelers.
National Tourist Route
The Norwegian Scenic Route Rondane starts at Muen, high up on Venabygdsfjellet, and runs along the eastern side of the mountain massif to Folldal. Here you will find the viewpoint named after the painter Harald Sohlberg. This is almost the spot where he painted the national painting of Norway, Winter night in the mountains. He lived at Nesset farm for a couple of years while completing his painting after having an artistic epiphany during an Easter trip. The first sketch was made that Easter, but the main painting, which hangs in the National Museum in Oslo, wasn’t completed until 15 years later.
In 1995, the painting was voted Norway’s national artwork.
Rondane and Sollia offer more than just stunning views of majestic mountains. The small village is an excellent starting point for hikes in the mountain massif of Rondane. If you’re up for a peak hike, you have 10 summits over 2000 meters to choose from. The most iconic are probably Rondeslottet and Høgronden. More info can be found at the Norwegian Trekking Association Turistforeningen and ut.no.
More Than Peak Hikes
Not everyone is keen on peak hikes. You can also wander through Illmanndalen via Bjørnhollia to Rondvassbu or through Langglupdalen towards Dørålseter and maybe further to Grimsdalshytta. If you want some variety, you can combine a hike with the cycling route sykkelturen Tour de Dovre.
Straumbu, Gammelgarden, or Stadsbuøyen are great starting points for hikes both into Rondane or towards Alvdal Vestfjell. Just park your car and set off.
At the rest stop Straumbu, there’s a warming hut with a roof terrace, information, kiosk, toilets, and long-term parking. You can also rent a canoe in the summer. The rest stop was designed by architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk as part of the Scenic route-project. From here, it’s just a two-hour hike to Bjørnhollia tourist lodge. You’ll also find a monument where Peer Gynt from the Ibsen play met great Boyg (meaning obstacle in Norwegian).
Even though Sollia is often the starting point for great mountain hikes, you can enjoy a lot without ambitious treks into the national park.
Gourmet food
A gentler trip, for example, is to Breisjøseter at the foot of Alvdalssølen. We went there in 1981 when I was 9 and my brother was 7; it’s just a 3-hour hike. We stayed overnight and the next day hiked up Sølen and back home.
In 2016, we took the trip again with 10 friends. This time, the goal wasn’t Sølen but a 12-course gourmet dinner hosted by Håkon Magne Skjøren, the son of the lodge operators. It was an experience we still talk about and highly recommend. Now, they also offer a smaller version, as even for big eaters, 12 courses were quite a lot!
I’ve only been that full once before, and that was after lunch at Paul Bocuse in Lyon.
Breisjøseter is idyllically located at the foot of Alvdalssølen or Sølnkletten. You don’t need to book all 12 spots yourself; it’s possible to book for couples or smaller groups too. Then you might have to share the dining room. We went in on Saturday morning, enjoyed the dinner, stayed overnight, and hiked back to our cabin the next day. The return hike is just three hours.
If you’re not into long mountain hikes, there are many other activities in the area.
Water
Canoeing on the Atna River is truly magical. Crystal-clear water gently takes you downstream without much paddling, sandbanks to make landfall for fly fishing or enjoying a packed lunch. Or for swimming, if you don’t mind dipping into ice-cold mountain water. You can rent a canoe and float down the glass-clear water with the Rondane massif in the background.
Canoeing might not be for everyone, but fishing in the lake, both summer and winter, is a great activity, even if you’re not guaranteed a catch. My grandparents often caught fish, at least as I remember. Their biggest fish is actually hanging on the wall outside Atnasjø Kafé along with many other big catches from the lake.
Fishing happens both summer and winter. Now the third and fourth generations have taken over the proud tradition.
If you rent a cabin at Atnasjø Kafé, you can also rent a small boat in the summer. In winter, park at the Joker store, hike down to the lake, drill a hole in the ice, and cast your line.
Goats and Horses
Kids and adults love visiting the goats at Øverdalssetra. The goats are very social and super cuddly when brought down from grazing, often around 5 PM. Then it’s just about starting to cuddle with the friendly animals.
They gather around you, nibble on shoelaces and zippers, and might even give you a little nudge, so you really get up close with the animals.
If you love goats and are on the west coast, you must stop in the small village of Undredal, known for both its goat cheese and Northern Europe’s smallest stave church.
You can hike up to Pika if you want a short trip. It’s 1157 meters above sea level, and the path is gentle and easy. The Crown Prince and Crown Princess of Norway celebrated their 10th wedding anniversary in Stor-Elvdal with a trip to Pika.
If you don’t feel like hiking but are a bit hungry, waffles and sour cream porridge are served during the summer. You might also be lucky enough to buy some cured leg of lamb or homemade sausages.
At Atnelien farm, you can also meet the various animals by joining a sheep gathering. You can go horseback riding whether you’ve ridden before or not. They offer riding both in the arena and out in the forest or mountains.
The goats from Øverdalssetra supply milk to Sollia Ysteri a bit further down the valley. In a cozy setting, you can enjoy coffee and homemade cakes and buy various cheeses and desserts to take home. The cheese with clover was an exciting discovery. The rhubarb compote is delicious with brie, and the caramel pudding made from goat milk was just WOW!
Culture
If you’re at the dairy, you should stop by Sollia Church. The church is a stately log building from 1738. It’s a cultural gem with a richly decorated interior and 85 seats. My cousin got married there, and the church was a beautiful setting for a lovely day.
At Atnbrua, it’s also worth stopping. First, at the Water Museum, a former old sawmill with a log-driving facility and power plant. Now it also houses art exhibitions and concerts.
Nearby is Amperhaugen farm, from the 1700s. The owners, Jo and Mette Øvergaard, received the St. Olav’s Rose for preserving Norwegian cultural heritage and traditions on the farm.
On the beautiful farmyard, they offer accommodation in a separate apartment or in an Østerdalsstue.
Jo has also built up an impressive war museum, or a war history collection as he calls it, over the years. A vast number of items and stories that Jo heard from his father, who was a resistance fighter during the war. The collection focuses on local efforts in Østerdalen. The museum houses many unique items, and if you’re lucky, you’ll get a guided tour by Jo Øvergaard himself, who has built up the museum through many years of personal effort.
Cook or Eat Out
If you’re staying in a cabin, you’ll find everything you need to cook at the Joker store. The beer selection will surprise you. If you don’t feel like cooking, you can have dinner at both Atnsjø Kafé and Rondane Riverlodge. The former has the world’s most beautiful view, and the latter specializes in waffles, both Norwegian and Belgian.
And if that’s not enough activity, it’s just a half-hour drive to Folldal, where you can join a guided tour of the mines.
In Grimsdalen, you see Rondane from the “back.” On a nice summer or autumn day, I absolutely recommend a drive or bike ride into Grimsdalen or Dørålen. Then you’ll see Rondane from the “backside,” and the flat valleys are perfect for pitching a tent or just having a picnic.
Even though it’s almost always sunny in Sollia, sometimes the weather can be a bit rough. Then it can be a cozy change to drive to the swimming pool at Spidsbergseter on Venabygdsfjellet.
Accommodation Options in the Sollia Area
I’ve spent almost every Easter and summer holiday here since I celebrated my first birthday in Easter 1973. It brings a special peace to come up to the mountains and enjoy the view of some of the most beautiful mountain range we have.
