Fitou - My French Paradise - Catrines reiser

We bought our house in Fitou in 2018. We chose this area because it’s more affordable and quieter than Provence, and initially, there were fewer Norwegians around. We have a great view and it’s just a 15-minute drive to the Mediterranean with endless sandy beaches and beach clubs that aren’t overcrowded, even in the middle of summer. A couple of hours away are the Pyrenees with castles, chateaux, and ski slopes in the winter, not to mention amazing food and wine.

However, our plan to avoid Norwegians didn’t quite work out since we live in a “development area” with many Scandinavians and other foreigners. There are about 30 permanent residents here, including both French and Swedish people.

But even though we’re close to fellow Norwegians, we don’t feel overwhelmed by Scandinavians everywhere we go once we leave little Fitou. It’s actually quite nice to chat with like-minded people and help each other out when needed.

Everything we need

Fitou is famous for its red wine, and we never buy wine from the supermarket. We just pop down (or drive by) one of the many wine cellars in town. It’s much cozier, and the wine is more than good enough for us.

Another important factor for us was having restaurants nearby. This small town of 2,500 residents actually has three good restaurants within walking distance. The walk back home can be a bit steep since we live on the hill above the town, but we need that exercise after all the good food.

The town itself is tucked away in a “canyon,” sheltered from the Tramontane wind that often blows from the west towards the sea. Only us “silly tourists” have settled up here by the windmills; the locals know better!

But we have the view, and it’s pretty spectacular. Sitting on the terrace, gazing out over the Mediterranean with a glass of local rosé, brings a unique sense of peace.

Besides the three restaurants, a “snack bar,” and plenty of wine producers, the town has other useful spots. There’s a bakery with fresh bread and a bar for morning or afternoon coffee.

There’s also a delicatessen with delicious and affordable take-away food on the weekends, and now a small shop with various organic products, from toilet paper to cheese. Some times we have a pizza van or a burger food truck coming by during the week, and there’s a market in the summer where you can buy vegetables, meat, and cheese.

Restaurants

They’re all different but share a focus on good food made with local ingredients.

Lou Courtal des Vidals

This might be our favorite. We had our first meal here after moving into our house. We’re always warmly welcomed, and there’s usually space even when it’s busy.

It’s family-run, with the father and his three sons involved. One son used to be the chef, now he works in the restaurant and produces his own honey. The second son works full-time and will likely take over the family business eventually. The third son is a winemaker, and naturally, his wines are served in the restaurant. He’s also taken over wine production from his uncle. Often, the winemaker himself is present, offering wine tastings with dinner.

Vidal, as we call it for short, is known for its buffet, available as both starter and main course. They also have a separate dessert buffet. You can really indulge here. Plus, they serve local specialties like snails, meat, and foie gras cooked in the sweet dessert wine Banyuls from the nearby town of the same name, and plenty of fresh fish year-round.

50-årsfeiring hos Vidal i Fitou — Foto: Celine Retvik

I celebrated my 50th birthday here with 30 friends, and they helped plan the menu, making the evening truly magical. It ended with a cake, candles, and a birthday song from the owner and the entire staff!

La Cave d’Agnes, or just Agnes.

The owner is the chef, and his partner runs the front of house. Some Norwegians call it “The Barn,” and it does look like an old barn. Large doors open onto the street, letting in the warm, scented summer air.

At Agnes, they propose a three-course meal that changes weekly with a couple of choices for each course. The food is exquisite, beautifully presented, and paired with local wines. The portions are generous, so you’ll leave feeling satisfied.

One evening, we were there with friends and ordered a local dessert wine we had tasted at the producer’s a few days earlier. It wasn’t cold enough to serve, but the chef had a surprise for us. He had just opened a local dessert wine that was over 50 years old and wanted us to try it. It was dark brown with lots of sediment, but for us dessert wine lovers, it was heavenly and a wonderful experience.

We always make sure to visit both Agnes and Vidal whenever we’re in Fitou.

Bel Ciano

This restaurant has changed owners and this is now an italian restaurant. It’s located at the “end” of the village, close to La Cave d’Agnès. The terrasse is lovely in the summer evenings and the restaurant is cosy in winter with a wood-burning stove to keep the heat. They also offer a couple of rooms to rent for holidaymakers.

If you want to check out Fitou for yourself, there are a couple of B&Bs in Fitou, as well as a few more in Leucate, the slightly larger town just a 15-minute drive away.

La Terrasse Vigneronne and L’Abri du Vent are both located in the village.

We’ve grown incredibly fond of our house, the neighborhood, and everything the area has to offer. We highly recommend Languedoc and Aude to anyone considering buying a vacation home in France.

I have a couple of tips for real estate agents who speak Scandinavian and/or English if you’re thinking about taking the plunge! Just get in touch!