Wining and dining in Macedonia

Did you know that Macedonia is one of Europe’s oldest wine-producing countries? They have grape varieties that are over 3,000 years old, which they proudly continue to cultivate and use for winemaking.

Several archaeological findings suggest that the earliest evidence of winemaking dates back to the 13th century BC. This means that viticulture and winemaking have been significant throughout Macedonia’s history. The first modern winery, opened in 1885, remains the largest vineyard in Southeast Europe today. Both wine and food in Macedonia are built on long, strong traditions that are still maintained.

Geographically, North Macedonia is on the same latitude as renowned wine regions in California, Bordeaux, and Chianti. Although each of them has unique characteristics, they share similar climatic conditions. Macedonia enjoys approximately 280 days og sunshine per year and has a blend of Mediterranean and continental climates.

Many local grape varieties are cultivated alongside more familiar ones like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The most common local red grape is Vranec, with Kratosija and Stanušina Crna also being popular. White grapes include Smederevka, Welschriesling (often called Laški Rizling), Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc.

Notable Wine Regions

Just a short drive from Skopje lies the Tikveš wine region, the heart of North Macedonia’s wine country. Here, you’ll find both large producers and many small, artisanal winemakers who started production in their garages and are now steadily growing. Many producers are based in or around the town of Kavadarci.

Family Winery Peškov still makes wine in their garage, though it’s now fully dedicated to wine production. We tasted various types of white, red, and pét-nat wines.

Bubbly

Pét-nat wines, or pétillant naturel, are bottled before fermentation is complete, allowing the remaining sugar to create bubbles. In France, particularly in Limoux where they claim to have invented the sparkling wine, this method is known as méthode ancestrale. These wines can be less clear and may have some sediment.

At the Peškov family winery, I could see the machine they use to freeze the bottle necks, although I didn’t witness the process in action.

Wines made using the Champagne method are clearer and free of sediment. This is achieved by tilting the bottles to collect the sediment in the neck, which is then frozen and expelled. A mixture called “tirage” or “liqueur de tirage” is added to restart fermentation and create bubbles and to fill up the liquid that was expelled.

Internasjonal berømmelse

Another notable producer is Winecellar Popovi, owned by the Popov couple, who have won numerous awards at major European wine fairs. They are proud to cultivate traditional Macedonian grapes and plan to expand production, despite working full-time as dentists. They also offer accommodations, allowing visitors to get close to both the wine and its producers.

Our final stop was at one of the largest “small” producers, Gjorgi Naumchev, an oenologist and pioneer in the Tikveš region. Together with other family businesses, he has formed a united front against agricultural authorities and other challenges. His family has cultivated grapes for centuries, but it’s only recently that they and other growers have shifted from selling grapes to making their own wine.

Naumchev believes that Macedonian wine has great potential, and the now over 60 family producers work daily to improve the quality and recognition of Macedonian wine beyond the region.

Extensive Selection

Naumchev Winery offers a vast selection of wines, and we had the pleasure of tasting many of them, accompanied by a delicious meal from a local restaurant. We needed the food to soak up all the delicious wine!

The entire cellar and much of the house are dedicated to wine production, with large tanks and bottles, both emtpy and full, everywhere. Years of tradition have resulted in excellent wine.

These producers are too small to be featured in the Vinmonopolet wine monopoly in Norway, but wines from the Tikveš region with typical Macedonian grapes can be found there.

Wine is also produced in other parts of Macedonia, such as the popular tourist destination of Ohrid, where the family behind Hotel Mal Sveti Kliment makes wine in traditional amphorae.

The porous terracotta allows oxygen to interact with the wine, aging it differently than in steel tanks or oak barrels. They also produce a spiced red wine perfect for the holiday season. The family runs a hotel, which is highly recommended for a central stay in the old town.

Culinary Experiences

Macedonia offers a wealth of culinary experiences for food enthusiasts. Wine and food are integral to Macedonian culture, and locals take great pride in their traditions, which remain untouched by fast food and processed products.

We visited a producer who smokes his own meat and sausages and collaborates with a truffle hunter, resulting in delicious flavors. Authentic, homemade food is the norm here.

Sasa Truffles takes his dog into the forest to find truffles, some of which end up with his friend Gavrilovski, who has converted garden sheds into smokehouses. Here, he cold-smokes and hot-smokes sausages, hams, and other meats. These hidden gems are best discovered through guided tours, such as those offered by Macedonia Experience who invited me on this trip.

Throughout Macedonia, traditional food is prevalent, while sushi bars and burger joints are rare.

We dined at Restaurant Plevna in Kuratica, near Ohrid, where we enjoyed a feast in a “garden room.” The meal began with small dishes based on local vegetables, particularly peppers, accompanied by sauces and dips with fresh bread.

The main courses featured slow-cooked stews with meat, beans, and vegetables, all paired with local wine. Everywhere we went, we discovered the Macedonian pride for their culinary traditions.

Baking Lesson in the Countryside

We also enjoyed similar dishes at Natasha Nedanoska’s, where we learned to make the traditional “pie” popular in Macedonia and the Balkans. We even got a crash course in how to make it ourselves. It was exciting to see how it was cooked, in a traditional manner on an open fire, heated on all sides without an oven.

The family rents out rooms for those who want to experience rural Macedonia. At Pirustia Nedanoski, you can stay with a fantastic view of Lake Ohrid.

At Old House BN, we first got to see the local honey production and the rooms they rent above the cosy dining room. Thre we enjoyed more homemade food, including ajvar, a pepper-based sauce or relish that is a staple in Macedonia. Although available in stores, Macedonians prefer to make their own. It is a wonderful condiment that I found later in Croatia as well proving that this is a typical Balcan dish. .

Homemade food and wine

To conclude these meals, rakija, a fruit brandy, is often served. For centuries, Macedonians have cultivated grapes primarily to make rakija. We visited the fruit grower behind Distillery Balaklija in Orman, marketed as “Chateau Orman.” They have built a “hobbit dwelling” to store their brandy in barrels, surrounded by fruit trees used for brandy production. The character of the brandy changes the longer it is aged in barrels.

The farm also offers accommodations for those interested in agritourism, with opportunities to explore the area, cook in the outdoor kitchen, and relax with the family.

I’m sure you can ask for a tour of the “hobbit dwelling” with a taste of the local products if you ask.

Macedonia is an “untouched” food destination, largely unaffected by international cuisine and trends. Locals serve traditional dishes made with pride, using homemade ingredients. With its unspoiled nature and villages that have changed little in the past 50 years, North Macedonia is an exciting country to visit.