Ohrid and Prespa – Two lakes in the heart of Macedonia

In the heart of the Balkans you will find two of North Macedonia’s most fascinating treasures: Lakes Ohrid and Prespa. These two lakes, surrounded by lush countryside, offer visitors a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.

Ohrid, known as the “Jerusalem of the Balkans,” is a city brimming with history and charm.

The UNESCO World Heritage city is picturesquely situated on the shore of Lake Ohrid and is home to more than 50,000 inhabitants. The old town is a labyrinth of narrow, often steep cobblestone streets and exciting architecture.

The absolute highlight in Ohrid is the Instagram favorite St. John of Kaneo. The iconic church sits on a cliff overlooking the lake, and from the path higher up in the terrain, one gets beautiful pictures of the church with Lake Ohrid in the background.

Another beautiful church is St. Sophia Church. A unique Byzantine church known for its fantastic frescoes and acoustics. We were there when the cherry trees were in bloom and got to enjoy the sight of both the pink trees and the church.

Old stone

I’m not necessarily a church person and find places like Tsar Samuel’s Fortress even more exciting. This is a majestic fort situated on a hill with a spectacular view over the city and the lake. This historic fortress was the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire under Tsar Samuel’s rule around the year 1000 and was part of a larger fortification that surrounded the entire city of Ohrid.

The fortress is one of the largest medieval fortifications in North Macedonia. Archaeological excavations suggest that the fortress was built on the ruins of an earlier fortification from the 4th century BC, possibly constructed by King Philip II of Macedonia. Tsar Samuel restored and expanded the fortress into a medieval stronghold at the end of the 10th century.

There are also remains of a Roman amphitheater in the city, which seems to be located right in the middle of a residential area. It’s something you just “stumble upon” on your way up to the fortress.

Ohrid is becoming a tourist destination with several large hotels along the lake. We stayed at a small hotel in the old town called Villa Mal Sveti Kliment.

It is not without a struggle to drag suitcases through the cobblestone streets, but it’s a short distance from the slightly more modern “center” with vibrant nightlife to the old town.

The hotel owners are also wine producers and can offer wine tastings in the “breakfast room.” 

In addition to a hike to churches and fortresses, we were lucky to enjoy a lovely boat trip on the lake. The lake can also be used for other water activities such as kayaking and SUP. A little further from the center itself is the tourist attraction Bay of Bones. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to see it, but it’s on the list for next time.

Prespa and Dolno Dupeni 

Lake Prespa, located south of Ohrid, is another jewel in North Macedonia’s crown. The lake, shared between North Macedonia, Greece, and Albania, is surrounded by lush nature and picturesque villages, many it feels, have not yet transitioned into the 21st century.

That is why the area around Prespa is a paradise for nature lovers and those seeking tranquility and authenticity.

Here you will find traditional villages where time seemingly have stood still. We even encountered a horse and carriage on our walkt through town. The local shop seemed almost unchanged from something our grandparents might have recognized. Nothing has happened there for decades, apart from the goods they sell.

The owner is happy to greet visitors and offers up a cup of coffee he rustles up behind the counter. Other residents of the town are curious about the foreign guests and also invite us in. Unfortunately, we had to decline the friendly offer!

The area is known for its nature and rich biodiversity. You can find a large variety of birds and plants. Many of the local farms offer the opportunities to taste fresh, local products. Many of them also run B and B’s and rent out a room or two to tourists, in addition to farming. We stopped at one producer of delicious honey and had a great lunch and got to check out their lovely bedrooms for rent.

Modern accomodation in an “old fashioned” village

We stayed at Villa Prespa, a charming accommodation in the tiny village of Dolno Dupeni. From the terrace, we can look out to Lake Prespa and all the way to Albania and Greece. This is a B&B run by the parents of our guides at Macedonia Experience, Yane and Alexander Jasofski.

You don’t come here to party, but to truly step back in time, relax, get close to nature, and experience something few other tourists have experienced. We went on both a short hike and a bike ride in the area, and the guides are happy to take you on both shorter and longer tours.

Villa Prespa is located only 7 km from Lake Prespa, making it a great summer destination. From the beach, you can swim or SUP. Just make sure you don’t cross the border into Greece!

Villa Prespa is located approximately 75 km from Ohrid Airport. You rent a car and travel by yourself or you can use our great guides in Macedonia Experience.

Archaeological digs 

The drive from Dolno Dupeni to the city of Bitola takes around an hour. Right outside the town of Bitola you will find the large archaeological site of Heraclea Lyncestis.

Heraclea Lyncestis was an important city in ancient Macedonia, founded by Philip II of Macedonia (father of Alexander the Great) in the 4th century BC. Large statues of both father and son can be found in the capital, Skopje.

The city became part of the Roman Empire in 168 BC and further developed during the Roman and later Byzantine periods.

The large site contains many ruins, including a Roman amphitheater, thermal baths, basilicas, and mosaic floors from early Christian times. The greatest pride is the well-preserved mosaics in the basilicas, which depict geometric patterns and biblical symbols.

The site also contains the remains of a Roman road, Via Egnatia, which passed through Heraclea and connected Rome and Constantinople. Macedonia was truly an important trading post and a significant part of both the Roman and Byzantine Empires.

Bitola 

Heraclea is just a few kilometers from present-day Bitola and is a popular destination for history-loving tourists.

Bitola is one of the oldest cities in North Macedonia, with a history dating back to antiquity. There is still much of the old here, even though the city center and pedestrian street are filled with modern shops offering (almost) the same goods as elsewhere in Europe.

Bitola was an important administrative and military city during the Ottoman Empire, known as the ‘City of Consulates’ due to the numerous foreign consulates established there. The city has long been a cultural and commercial hub. The market still remains the heart of the city, and we were fortunate enough to experience a market day in the old bazaars. It truly felt as if we had stepped back in time.

The city is becoming a modern food hub where people take pride in their local products. In Macedonia, there’s really no need to talk about ‘locally sourced’ food. Everything is naturally local and there are hardly any McDonald’s or fast food chains here. Instead, they prepare food the way it has always been done, even in restaurants, using local products from the market.

More and more food and wine producers are working on elevating the quality of their products. We learned a lot about the quality improvement in the wine industry on our trip to the wine regions outside of Skopje. Read my other article about the food and wine of Macedonia here.

Travel through time and nature

North Macedonia is an exciting and largely undiscovered destination. Here you can enjoy modern tourist hotels in Ohrid or take a trip back in time in villages like Dolno Dupeni. This is not a place for the average tourist, but if you want to explore one of Europe’s last hidden gems, it is absolutely worth a visit.

Whether you’re wandering through Ohrid’s historic streets, watching the sun set over Lake Prespa, or exploring the surrounding countryside, this part of North Macedonia will leave you with unforgettable memories and a longing to return.

This trip was organized by Macedonia Experience, and I only paid for my plane tickets. There were no requirements or expectations regarding what I should write about.

I highly recommend the team at Macedonia Experience if you want to travel independently but still would like some assistance with guiding and logistics. Many of the places we visited would be difficult to find on your own so for an in depth experience I would recommend using a travel agency or Macedonia Experience directly.

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